The Last Goodbye

I just passed through Korean passport control and had my passport stamped for what may be the last time here in Korea.

Last night, I returned from my travels through SE Asia and stayed with a couple friends in Busan.  One of those friends was really the first friend I made in Korea.  We noted last night how our conversations are always weighty—not necessarily serious, but about substantive things.  He challenged me a lot in my faith and my worldview.  He’s Canadian (not that there’s anything wrong with that) and he constantly challenged the American-centric views that I brought with me when I arrived in Korea.

He was also the one that opened my eyes to Geoje’s amazing beauty.  With his car, we were able to explore the nooks and crannies in Geoje that I would have never been able to find or experience if it hadn’t been for him.

We discovered a dead whale on a deserted Geoje beach, ate whale meat (not the same one we found), and ate dog-meat stew.  There was actually an ongoing joke comparing him to John Locke from Lost for his connection to “the Island.”  Geoje would have been entirely different if it wasn’t for his friendship.

Then, I got to know his girlfriend who became his fiance and then his wife.  The past two weeks, I’ve been so overwhelmed with the experience of travel, that I haven’t reflected much on what I’m leaving behind.  Late last night we were catching up, my friend asked how I felt about leaving Korea.   It really made me think about it.

It’s too easy to say that I’m “going home” in returning to America.  Korea has been my home for the past two years.  My heart has become attached to my friends, my students, my co-workers, and my church family.  I’ve become so used to the green mountains surrounding Gohyeon, and seeing the sea almost everyday that its hard to adjust to life on the plains.

Korea will always be some sort of home.  No, I’m not simply returning home.  Instead, it might be better to say that I’m returning to my first home.

A Week of Goodbyes: Wednesday

Today was the big goodbye.  It was when I finally said goodbye to my co-workers and all of my students.  I came in earlier to say goodbye to the kindergarteners one last time and finished up my student evaluations.

Then, I had to run around applying for my pension refund and then close my bank account.  Luckily the won had partially rebounded from its lows last week.  I didn’t get hit as bad when I sent my last paycheck and my severance pay home.

Back at school, I said goodbyes to each of my classes, giving them some candy, and getting some notes and things.  My highest elementary class threw me a party.  They had been asking me over the past week questions like what kind of food I like and what I like to drink and things like that.

So, while it was no surprise that they had planned a party, I was surprised at how expensive it was.  When I came into the room, they had put balloons all over the white board, and on the walls.  They had laid out all the food: ddeokbokki, grapes, cookies, kimchi, and mandarin oranges.

I had probably gotten the closest with this class since since there were only 4-5 of them in class at any given time and they were in the highest ability level.  They gave me some fun gifts.  Below is a picture of my bounty: 20 dried squid, a Mickey Mouse notebook,  2 semi-dried squid, and small cell-phone doodad.  Unfortunately, I had to leave the squid behind because I didn’t want an issue with customs (and they have a very pungent aroma.)

I got a round of applause from my adult class and then a hurried goodbye from my last class.  When I returned to the teacher’s office for the last time, I realized I hadn’t really packed my desk.  I rushed everything into my backpack or the trash and left with my bosses.  It wasn’t until the elevator ride down when my boss was telling me that she couldn’t believe I was going that I got choked up and teary.

I really had been a great year at the school.

I closed the night with packing and a visit from my chicken feet friend.  We have had some really good conversations from different ends of the political spectrum.  He’s the first person to hold his own in a political debate with me in a long time.  that sounds arrogant I know, but I am pretty stubborn in my views (too much so probably) and most people shrink away.  But he called me out when I was wrong and full of it, and he let me do the same to him.  We left knowing that we probably will keep in contact, and that we really might just see each other again, and that made this bye really good.

A Week of Goodbyes: Thursday

Today I began my week of goodbyes with my last Thursday at school.  (My final "last" day is October 15th).

Tuesdays and Thursdays at my school are more laid back.  On these days, we have elective courses with smaller classes and, for the most part, more motivated students.  I teach three grammar classes and a kindergarten class.  One of my grammar classes is made up of 11-13 year olds.  They are good enough at English that they I can joke with them and them with me.

For example, they asked me if a new teacher would come when I left.  I told them that the school was looking at a Canadian teacher.  One girl said, "Canadians are kind."

Then I said, "Yeah, but watch out if you accidently call them Ameicans."

Then we joked about how I had my head bitten off on a few separate occasions here by accidentally referring to a Canadian as an American.  So, if there is a new Canadian teacher, and you read this, sorry if they do it just to get under your skin.  Its mostly my fault.

Then, I went to a movie at the newly re-opened CGV and then to Homeplus for the last time.  I can honestly say I will not miss Homeplus one bit.  First, I never got used to the "greeter" who greets you loudly using a microphone/speaker setup!  I don't want it to be announced that I'm coming in.  A simple welcome would be nicer.  Then, a couple things I was looking for were out of stock.  This lady started pushing me in the line.  Finally, right when I got checked out, another customer stole my shopping cart (I put in a 100 won deposit).

While I won't miss the shopping experience at Korean megastores, I will definitly miss my students.

You’re Welcome: The cost of living (Part 1/2)

Today, I received this e-mail from a future Geojite (or is that Geojean?):

American in Korea,
I am set to come to Korea in January to teach English in Geoje.  I found your blog by performing a Google search and I wanted to ask you a question.
Can you give me an idea of the cost of living in Geoje?
I'm sure that you are busy, but if you find time, it would be great if you could help me out.
Thank you for your time.

Sincerely,

CW

Well, CW that’s a good question.  And of course you’re welcome before you even thank me.  I want to answer your question in two parts.  Today, I want to look a a general snapshot of Korean money compared to US money.
I don’t know your situation but if you are paying off any loans or debt or have the goal of saving up dollars—or any other currency for that manner—Korea is going to be mighty expensive.
I previous wrote about the sinking Korean won a few weeks ago.  Then, I took the hit and exchanged my money and sent it to America.  I’m glad I did then, because its gotten much worse.  The won is now at a 7 1/2 year low against the US dollar!  The only time its been worse in recent history is when it was forced into an IMF loan in 1998.
Here’s today’s chart from Google Finance:

Its down about 33% the past year, and down about 10% the past three weeks.  I re-did my end of term budget to plan in my final payments from Korea (last paycheck, severance pay, and pension disbursement) and was shocked at the results.  I lost $600 compared to what I would have received if September had been my last month!  That’s what a 10% drop in a currency means for ex-pats sending money back overseas.
Teachers with prior experience or a teacher’s degree usually get a 2.2 million won a month contract.  When I first came, this was worth about $2,400 a month.  Add in the benefits—health, the severance pay at the end, and the paid housing and the deal was good.  Now the same 2.2 million won month contract is worth about $1,600 a month!  That’s $800 less than the beginning of term!  Because of the sinking won, many teachers have taken a de facto pay cut of $800 a month!

	Korean Won	US Dollars
October 2007	2.2 million	$2,400
October 2008	2.2 million	$1,600

Those wanted to save money or send money home are at a serious disadvantage.  However, if you are looking to travel around Asia during breaks, around Korea on the weekend, and be immersed in a foreign culture, Korea would still be a great choice.  It just might be a good idea to keep the money you earn here until the won goes up a bit before sending any of it home.
Also, while the weak won hurts the exchange rate, it hasn’t caused a huge inflation.  I’m speaking as a consumer here not an economist.  So your won aren’t as worthy overseas, but here in Korea, they are just right.  Tomorrow, I’ll talk more about.
You’re welcome.

You’re Welcome: Going to the Movies [Updated 10/3/08]

Updated

Dear American in Geoje:
I’m living in Geoje, without a car, and there’s nothing to do.  I do like to watch movies.  I’m sure there're Korean sites that say the show times, but I can’t read Koran !  I don’t know how to find what are playing until I show up.  Is there a way I can use the interwebs to get my answer?

Thanks in advanced,

Illiterate North American

Well, Illiterate American, don’t be ashamed of your illiteracy.  Plenty of English teachers living in Korea can’t read their host country’s language.  So, I have some suggestions to help you get the answers you need.
First, learn how to read!  The Korean alphabet is designed to be so easy, even women can learn how to read it!  And before you get on to me for being sexist, it was Korean’s themselves who nicknamed their alphabet “women’s script.”  Here’s an introductory video:

But, if you’re thinking of bailing on your contract, and don’t want to take the time to learn a new alphabet, then here’s the easy way.


1.  Visit either CGV's or Lotte's websites for the latest showtimes

A.  Go to the original version of the Lotte Cinema website
This link is specific for Geoje.  Once you are at the site, select and copy the name of the movie.  Then, go to naver.com.  There, paste the name of the movie into the search engine and press enter. 

It should show a movie poster and trailer for the movie.  That way you an see what movies are showing.  See the example below for Hancock. 

B. Visit CGV's website (your welcome for the video I made)

The CGV website is entirely in flash, which means cutting and pasting the names of the movies in Naver isn't possible.  However, CGV does have links to the film trailers if you click on the titles.


3.  Go to the theater
Here’s a map.  This is in Gohyeon of course.  Note the Homeplus building in the left of the map.  Then, the bus terminal in the right of the map.  Parking is on the street (where you can find it), or in the garages at the theaters.  Make sure to get your parking ticket stamped at the box office or you'll have to pay for parking.  Click the map for a larger view.

4.  Buy your ticket
Make sure to grab a number from the machine.  CGV's lobby is on the sixth floor all the way in the back now, ignore the old, empty box office in front.  At Lotte, their lobby is on the third floor.  When your number’s called, say the name of the movie in English.  If they don’t understand (some movie titles in Korean are different), then point to the movie poster.

Then, they’ll want to know how many people (fingers work nice for this if they don’t speak Korean.)  Then, they will want to know where you want to sit.  Chose a seat area from the monitor.  At Lotte, my preferred theater, my favorite seat is D8.

5.  You’re Welcome



Special Note:  Movies are NOT dubbed over for the most part.  If they are, then next to the title it will say “더빙”.  The exception to this rule are cartoons.  Cartoons are usually dubbed, but sometimes come in both dubbed and subtitled flavors (playing on separate screens).  Its usually the bigger budget American ones like Kung Fu Panda, Ratatouille, and Wall-E that will come in both versions.
This means dubbed:더빙 (dubbing)
This means subtitled:  자막 (jah-mahk)
If you are unsure, then ask with those above words.  It would be silly to spend your money and not understand a word of the movie.

Oh and you’re welcome.

I see Koreans

Just today, I was walking home from school during my break and saw a kid approaching me.  He was wearing shorts and a t-shirt and a baseball cap.  I glanced at him and thought, that it was strange for a foreigner to be walking the streets of Gohyeon alone.  I looked again, and realized that he was Korean.  He had the slanted eyes, and the rounded face.  His light skin and clothes had "fooled" me.

I work with Korean kids five days a week. I suppose they are becoming the "norm" to me so much that I don't even consider their Korean-ness.  I actually have pondered whether my students would even stand out so much in an all-white environment.  Some of them are "black face" (a term the Korean student use to mean a felloo Korean is dark-complected).  However, some of the kids have skin that is lighter than mine.

Now the adults are easy to tell apart from caucasians.  The sun-baked, soju-pikled skin of the men give them away.  And the trying too hard to be white skin of the ladies give them away.  Its still difficult for me to think of my kids as differnet from the ones I taught in America.

Ask a Korean! has a great post about telling Koreans apart from other Asians.  His categories are more comlete than I would have been able to imagine.  So, for those who don't have regular contact with Asians, or want to hone your racial recognition skills, its a good read.

Please note:  even Koreans don't seem to always be able to tell other Asians apart.  They will insist that they know a Japanese person when they see him or her, but the truth is they are wrong all the time.  I have known Filipinos, Chinese Malasians, and an Indonesian women here in Korea.  All of them have stories where Koreans have approached them in the bus or in the market and were confused when my friends didn't understand and couln't speak Korean.

So try as you might even being as an Asian doesn't give you some magic power to distinguish between races.

10 Favorite Pictures

   A fellow American ex-pat teacher is compiling some pictures and video to make a video sideshow to show to his friend and family back home to give them a better idea of life in Korea.

Here are my contributions:

1.  “Windy Rock” at Hageumgang, Geoje

This moment is when I fell in love with Geoje.  This grass covered rock juts out into the seat.  Its really breathtaking.

 

2.  This was taken along the south edge of Geoje’s coast.  There are evergreen trees, and the water is great for swimming.  

3.  After visiting Bali, I came to realize that in the spring and summer, Geoje can be just as green as Bali.  This is what I call the “wave mountain.”

4.  This was the site that greeted me my first day back in Korea after a visit home.  My new neighbors were drying some fish on the clothesline right next to their underwear.  Amazing.

5.  This shows something I’ve always thought interesting about Korea.  This is a small kimbap restaurant.  We have countless restaurants in America called “Granny’s” or the such.  They often have stylized logos of grandmas for their logos.  This restaurant uses a morbidly serious picture of a woman as there’s.

6.  Game across this lady with her mom and her son and their dog.  They were pushing a stroller and who was in it?  The four year old son?  Nope, their spoiled toy dog.

7.  This was taken right outside of Gyeongbukgong, the main palace in Seoul in February 2008.  Several interesting things.  First, there’s a mound of sweet potatos sicks in the center.  Then, a woman with a “baby bump” under her coat.  Her baby is strapped to her back and she’s wearing the coat over them both.  Behind me (out of the picuture) there was a cigarette-smoking man selling cotton candy from his motorcycle.  I love Korea.

 

8.  Below is a scene from the Hollywood Westren (sic) Bar in Gohyeon, Geoje.  This place is pretty cheesy and I love it.  Of course, what says “western” better than a mini Uncle Sam sticking out of a ice cooler filled with flavored malt beverages.

9.  This is one of the cutest girls in kindergarten.  She’s 4 in this picture, and having an exhausting day practicing her ABCs.

10.  This is the Samgyapsal God.  He watches over those who want to grill meat from his brothers over an open flame and drink soju.  His eyes glow and night.  I’m pretty sure there’s a factory that makes these somewhere because I’ve seen them outside a few places.

2 years and 300 posts

Today is my two-year anniversary in Korea. Last year, on my anniversary, it was just a few days before I left for few week trip in America. I wrote that post as a play on a break-up letter.

At the time, I had come to a point when I was really ready to return to my homeland. I knew that my time in America would be temporary and that I’d returning to Korea. As I look ahead to my final weeks here, I don’t think I’ll be coming back—although I will miss Korean fashion mascots (that's the Teenie Weenie behind me).

This past year in Korea has been good. I’ve learned a lot about living in a foreign culture, and learned a lot about myself. I wouldn’t give that up for anything. But, its time to go home.

A friend who is now married to Korea told me that now he's in a sort of limbo. Whens he's back home in Canada, he misses Korea, and when he's in Korea, he misses Canada. I'm afraid that will happen to me--or already has.

Also, this is my 300th post. I wrote about my 200th post, and “101th” post previously. Amazing, last year in roughly the same time, I wrote 200 posts, compared to about 100 for this year.

The most popular posts (according to Google Analytics) from the past year are:

• Inevitable – where I describe having been lightly hit by a car
• Dakbal & Beondegi – where I describe having enjoyed two Korean delicacies: Chicken feet and silkworm pupa
• How to Survive Jangma ‘08! –where I gave practical tips for people to survive Korea’s deadly monsoon season. The tips were helpful, that they decided to cancel Jangma ‘09! You’re welcome.

My blog is the 4th result under a Google search for Geoje, which is kinda cool. I suppose this biggest change in the past year, has been the creep toward sarcasm—which has unintentionally offended (see my “You’re Welcome” series.)

All in all, I’m proud of the blog, and happy about the past two years in Korea.

The Heat is Getting to Me...

The weather in Geoje had been humid since mid-June. But when I walked out of my house on Tuesday, it was something more. Something that we can’t adequately express in English. The air was thick with what looked like light fog, but it wasn’t cool like it usually is when fog is around. And it didn’t have that brownish twinge and chemical odor that smog has either. This was something different.

The air was so moist and hot that it was condensing on my skin the instant I set outside. I knew this was condensation and not sweat because I had been in the air conditioning all night and I wasn’t hot enough to begin sweating. No, this was condensation. Like that puddle the forms around a cold glass of water, or when you grab a can of beer from the fridge and its already dripping water onto the floor by the time you get it back to your chair. Except, instead of a cold aluminum can, it is my skin doing the condensation.

The air was so humid that I imagined, if a person were light enough, they might be able to swim through it. The image of my kindergarten students jumping up and swimming through the sky came to me. In their little summer tank tops and sandals, they’d kick their pudgy legs and gain altitude. The air was so moist that.

I imagined that a slight change of physics—like an increase of the constant of gravity, or a slight change in the rotation of the earth--would cause all the moisture to condense at once and flood the town and soak all the people, except the delicate little ladies that had been using umbrellas to block the sun—they’d be dry. But the rest of us would be up to our ankles in water until the water was drained away and we’d be left with a crisp cool air and blue skies with no haze. My kindergartners would be standing up after having been gently put to the ground and I could turn my air conditioner off. And I wouldn’t sweat.

You're Welcome: How's the Weather?

Dear American in Geoje,

I have no idea what the weather is going to be like day to day.  I ask the Korean women I work with, "Should I bring an umbrella tomorrow?"  They always say,"Yes."  They say this even if its a nice day!  I'm so confused.  The English sites I've found only have information for the big cities.  Where do I go for weather information for Korea?

Thanks in advance,

Always Dry

I've been there.  About the umbrella thing: Korean women often use umbrellas to keep the sun off their faces.  This keeps them looking as white as possible.

As for the weather information, go to Naver.  If you go to http://weather.local.naver.com you'll be greeted with a map.  This will give you an overview for each province.  Click on the province to go to the city level.  On the next page there will be a list entirely in Korean of cities within that province, select yours.

If you can't read Korean, then learn to read Korean!  If that's not an option, then get a Korean to help you, or match up the name of your city from your Certificate of Alien Registration card with the name from the list.

  
For those living in Geoje, here's your ready-made link.

Then, when you find your city, look at the dates for each city.  One forecast day might say: 7월10일.  The "7월" means "7th month" (AKA July).  Then "10일" means "10th day."  So, the forecast is for July 10th.

For those Americans out there, who can't read Celsius, here's a little trick:  go to the Google search bar in your browser (in the upper right corner), or to the Google homepage.  Type in **C in F.  For example, to convert 24 Celsius into Fahrenheit, type in "24C in F".  Then Google spits out the answer:  75.2 degrees Fahrenheit

You're welcome

Take off your shoes

Since coming to Korea, I’ve learned to take off my shoes often.  I’ve written about this before actually, within a month of being in Korea.

Something I’ve begun to notice is that many office workers will remove their outside shoes and wear some sore of sandals indoors.  This applies to the cubicle workers at the education office, the clerks at my bank, and even the ladies at the cell phone store downstairs.

I’ve noticed several bus driver that don’t want to be left out of “take your shoes off at work” club.  Here’s one:

How to Survive Jangma ‘08!

The Korean press and the ex-patriot bloggers in Korea have focused all of their attention on the pending Mad Cow genocide about to be unleashed against the Korean people. While, it looks like the genocidal beef has been repelled for the time being, another danger has crept up and overtaken Korea: Jangma! (장마)

Jangma! is the deadly monsoon that comes every year. Jagma! takes the shape of a weather front that covers the entire region and brings oppressive humidity, drenching downpours, and gray skies for nearly a month. Those caught unprepared may be washed away. Below are some helpful tips from someone who weathered Jangma! for one (1) season—um last June. Perhaps if you are lucky and you follow my advice, you too, like me, will survive Jangma ‘08!

1. Stock up on umbrellas

You will probably need about 10-12 umbrellas to get you through this rainy time. Why so many? There are three reasons.

First, you will probably want to use at least two umbrellas simultaneously to maximize the shelter and protect yourself from the rain (see 3 and 4 below).

Second, you will probably leave at least one or two behind in a cab or at Dunkin Donuts. Jangma! is sneaky. The rain may stop and maybe even a little sun will shine through so you forget that you had an umbrella. Then just when you’ve left that umbrella behind, the clouds join and you get drenched to the bone.

Third, the wind blows hard. Those of us who have seen the cautionary movie Mary Poppins know what happens to greedy people who cling too tightly to umbrellas. To prevent being carried away by the wind, let go of your umbrella at the first sign of a strong gust. Its better to lost an umbrella and be wet than to lost your life!

2. Make sure to pass out only in well-drained areas.

Jangma! often causes flash floods of streets. The storm drain system, at least in Gohyeon, is very below par. Just last night, as I walked home in the Jangma!, I had to walk over a drunk ajoshi passed out on the sidewalk. At first look, it didn’t seem to make sense. It was pouring rain, and there was this guy, peacefully sleeping off the soju with a little nap in the middle of the sidewalk. Then I realized this guy was a genius.

Water was draining off the sidewalk and into the street and gutter, and thereby minimizing his chances of drowning in a puddle. If you choose to drink yourself to passing out, I suggest you are at least as prudent as that ajoshi. Its better to endure the occasional kick while passed out on the sidewalk than drown in the gutter!

3. Set up a four day pants drying cycle.

You are going to get wet. If wear your pants a few times before washing then take my advice. You will need to implement a four day rotation policy. For example, you wear your Monday pants and despite using two umbrellas, you get wet anyway. The humidity is so high that those pants will take at least four days to dry. So you will need to hang them, and get a different pair on Tuesday.

On Friday, Monday’s pants will be dry enough for you to wear again. Simply repeat the cycle until Jangma 08! has passed us by. Its better to have wet clothes all over your house than get the fungal infections that come with skin that is constantly wet (that could kill you).

4. Protect yourself from acid rain!

The same pollutants from China that cause the Yellow Sands in spring also cause damaging acid rain in during Jangma!—or at least that’s what the Koreans tell me. So, if you do get wet, be careful. Go home immediately and dose yourself with baking soda—this will counteract the acid. Then, wash very well. The acid rain has been linked to male baldness in Korea. Above is a man’s picture before Jangma ‘06! and then after. Disturbing. Its better to be covered in baking soda than to lose your hair and die from the acid rain of Jangma!

5. Never cross the street.

We all know that Koreans are dangerous drivers. However, something happens when it rains: well actually nothing happens, and that’s a problem. See running red lights is one thing, but running red lights in a downpour is another. Lower visibility, oils seeping up from the road, and standing water create dangerous conditions for anyone trying to cross the street. So I recommend that no pedestrians cross the street until Jangma ‘08! has passed. That may sound alarmist, but this is coming from a survivor.

6. Never sleep with the fan on.

I cannot stress this enough. Jangma! makes the air very humid and it is almost impossible to get cool. Many people turn to the use of electric fans to cool the air, or air conditioners to cool the air and suck out the humidity—to their doom! Do not make the mistake that my friends’ wife’s cousin’s friend’s sister made when she fell asleep during the Jangma! in a closed room with the fan on. She never realized her mistake, because she never woke up! Its better to be drenched in sweat, than be cool, dry, and dead!

Final Thought

On that same walk home the other night among the drunk Samsung workers, I realized the great benefit of Jangma!—it washes the sidewalk clean of piss and puke.

Good luck on surviving this treacherous season of Jangma ‘08!

---

Photo Credits:

Umbrellas by ericinrok

Bald guys based on Hair Club for Korean Men by SuzÿQuzÿ

Killer Fan from Extracurriculars

Speaking of Awkward Poses…

This is a picture up for display at the photo studio at the M-Park building in Gohyeon.  Something went terribly wrong when the photographer was posing this guy.  I think she forgot to have him not cover his face.  Oops.

That doesn’t mean what you think it means

This picture is of a glass divider in the Geoje location of the Kortalian (Korean + Italian) food chain Pastario.  I say Kortalian because they have things like Kimchi Risotto.  The reflections in the pic are from the businesses across street.  Pay special attention to the last line.

Despite the slogan, this is indeed a family restaurant.

Floating to Work

Yesterday it rained almost all day. The rain started around mignight and went through until about six or seven in the evening. When I was going to school around 1pm, it was a downpour. My house is just up the street. By up, I mean literally uphill. With the rain, and poor storm-water system in Gohyeon, my street became a river. Here's a video I took on my cellphone:

The rainy day also saw kids wearing some funny costumes. Here's Oscar in his rain gear. It sports a clear vinyl visor, and even a space on the back to go over his backpack. Very handy. And the brightness provided safety crossing the street. The pic was also taken on my phone.

Avon Makeup in Geoje

So I moved closer to the center of town about a week and a half ago.  On my way to work today, I noticed a really funny picture.  It was a very large sign on a very small office for Geoje Avon.

The sign features a beautiful Caucasian--maybe Latina model.

I might suggest a motto for the Geoje franchise of Avon.  It may be too forward, but it would definitely fit with the theme of using western models to sale makeup to Asians: Buy Avon, It'll Make You Look White.

I also noticed an interesting similarity with a certain movie poster.  Pardon my lack of Photoshop skills--or in this case, Paint.NET skills.

I worked at a movie theatre when The 40 Year Old Virgin was released.  When we put the poster up, the look on Steve Carrel's face would make me laugh every time.  Geoje Avon's sign is almost as hilarious.  Thanks Korea.

The Restaurant Downstairs

My building has two restaurants on the first floor.  One is a spring roll place and the other specializes in 감자탕 (gamjatang).  Despite the name, which literally means "potato soup," the featured ingredient is pork backbone.  The meat is tender, and in the version I had, there was a potato in the soup.  The picture below is from the wikipedia entry on the soup.

Anyway, I was walking home the other night and noticed the place was closed much earlier than usual and that the following sign was posted on the door.  I took a picture and had my co-worker translated it.  It roughly said:

Due to personal reasons, the restaurant will be closed for a few days.  Sorry.

The next day, I took the following picture inside the front window:

I guess they had to shut down so they'd have a place to dry their clothes...

A Korean sobriety check

A sobriety check on a Tuesday night in Gohyeon. In Korea every night is a party night.

Ignorance was bliss...

I haven't kept up much on Korean news. I was talking with some other foreigners about how safe Korea is. But it's not safer than the West--it just seems that way because we don't have Nancy Grace to tell us what to be afraid of.

This past week I've been getting wind of some really sad, sick stories in Korea. Just this past Sunday, a women in Gohyeon threw her two children out the window. One died and the other fell into a tree and survived. Nothing in the news about it, just people at the crowded apartment complex saw it happen.

There also seems to be this growing awareness of sexual predators in Korea. First, my school director made a comment about kids not being outside as much because of recent kidnappings. Then this story really made me sick to my stomach. The attempted kidnapping of a girl by a convicted sexual predator was caught on security camera. The girl was threatened with a knife, then beat and kicked. When he tried to drag her out of the elevator (by her hair) she screamed. A neighbor ran to help and the guy bolted when we saw her.

Despite the witnesses and video evidence, when the mother reported the incident to the police, they tried to downplay it, and write it off as a simple assault by drunk man. I guess an brutal, attempted kidnapping by a sexual predator requires more paperwork than an ajeossi who had a bit too much to drink.

Brian in Jeollanam-do has followed the story well and has a great write-up here. Here's a video from a Korean news site that shows the attack (the music is really cheesy--I suggest muting before playing). Warning, its very disturbing.



If the assault wasn't bad enough, the poor response from police compounded the problem. This line from the story really got me:

With criticism growing, the police station launched a full-scale investigation three days after the incident took place, examining the CCTV which recorded his face and his beating the girl. The move came after the parents had already distributed leaflets about the incident to neighbors to catch the suspect.

The guy was later caught and confessed. Then, to add to the circumstance of the attack and poor response, the background of the attacker really got me:

He was previously in jail for 10 years for habitually sexually assaulting minors and was released two years ago, police said.

Despite the fact that this guy was known to be a habitual offender, due to Korea's insane laws that protect the identity of criminals, they won't release his name or mugshots. So, if he ever gets out of prison (again), he'll be free to attack another kid (again). Hopefully, Korean police will learn from this incident and actually do their jobs to prevent these crimes, or at the very least, investigate them when they happen.

Also, I hope lawmakers step up and change laws to protect the public at least releasing the identities of criminals.

Since I'm really powerless to do anything about these problems as a foreigner in Korea, I kind of wish I was just ignorant again.

Zenkimchi

I noticed yesterday that the number of hits my blog was receiving shot way up. I started the blog mainly as a way to keep in touch with friends and family back home. Most visits come from friends or through searches on google for geoje (I'm on the first page of results). So, I was surprised to see the huge influx of referrals from ZenKimchi.

ZenKimchi is great blog about life in Korean. The food section is probably the main attraction--if you on google for "Korean food" an you'll see that ZenKimchi has the same spot as I do for Geoje.

So for those interested in learning about Korean food, I highly recommend ZenKimchi. His post "Top 15 Strangest Foods I've Tried Thus Far" is a great primer on the odd food choices available here in Korea.